The preferred coat of Al Capone, overcoats are long fabric coats reaching on average from the knees to the ankles. Overcoats are meant to be worn over suits and blazers and are intended for fall and winter weather. The best overcoats are made from wool and have a bit of heft in weight though coats made of cashmere or a cashmere/wool blend are also acceptable and can last for years. If lighter in weight it is a topcoat, if heavier than a greatcoat. The fit of an overcoat should be comfortable over a suit jacket. If wrinkles develop then the overcoat is too small. As far as styles, overcoats typically fall between the single-breasted with notch lapel and the double-breasted with peak lapel. There should be enough room in the overcoat to button up the coat over a suit to the top button. For quality it is best to go with sewn canvas as this method of construction lasts for decades. Fused canvas uses fabric glue that can come apart from use and the rigors of a cold environment. It is important that the overcoat lack any ostentatious display. These are meant to be stylish but functional. The main features of an overcoat are notched lapels, a welt chest pocket, single or double breasts, button closures, front darts for fit, a ticket pocket (though this is more and more of an option), and straight or diagonal flip pockets. An overcoat is an investment and both a durable and stylish piece that will last through any serious change in fashion. There are many different types of overcoats available.
a single-breasted fly front with a short notched lapel and no cuffs. This coat was invented in the 19th century and has gone through very little variation.
similar to the Chesterfield, the Covert is made primarily for hunting and sport. Made of durable material, the Covert is designed to withstand mud, moisture and the elements.
The Trench coat was invented in the trenches of WWI and quickly gained popularity in civilian life. In fact it is the Trench coat most people think of when discussing an overcoat. This is mostly because of the influence of 1940s film on men’s fashion. Humphrey Bogart and the Trench coat still hold sway in popular imagination.
The French Paletot is a classic double-breasted overcoat with a 6 by 2 button arrangement. The buttons flair out as they travel upwards giving the coat a more stylish appearance. Peak lapels are a necessity for it to be a true Paletot.